Wave runup en playasel papel del estado morfodinámico de la playa

Abstract

The wave runup is the vertical oscillation of the coast line due to the waves. Given the complexity of the processes that lead to runup oscillations, this variable is commonly estimated on the basis of empirical models that directly relate it to wave parameters and beach characteristics. The thesis presented here is based on the hypothesis that it is possible to improve runup empirical predictions by including information about the beach morphodynamics in empirical models. Based on two field campaigns carried out on Somo beach, the processes responsible for the swash zone oscillations were analyzed. These dataset, and data compiled from previous studies, were then used to develop two new empirical models to calculate high and low frequency swash, taking into account the beach morphodynamics.