Activos antioxidantes en la formulación de productos cosméticos antienvejecimiento

  1. Castaño Amores, Celia 1
  2. Hernández Benavides, Pablo José 1
  1. 1 Universidad de Granada
    info

    Universidad de Granada

    Granada, España

    ROR https://ror.org/04njjy449

Journal:
Ars pharmaceutica

ISSN: 2340-9894 0004-2927

Year of publication: 2018

Volume: 59

Issue: 2

Pages: 77-84

Type: Article

DOI: 10.30827/ARS.V59I2.7218 DIALNET GOOGLE SCHOLAR lock_openOpen access editor

More publications in: Ars pharmaceutica

Sustainable development goals

Abstract

Objectives: Knowledge about skin aging underlying process, nowadays, is the key strategy in prevention of its main cutaneous expression. Through the study of the major mechanism responsible of cellular senescence, oxidative stress, it is reviewed the relevance of various cosmetic actives with the potential to neutralise the oxidative damaging effect. Methods: To carry out the review of related scientific articles we used the databases PubMed, as well as various texts about Cosmetic and Dermopharmacy. Results: During the course of skin aging two mechanisms overlap, an intrinsic process with disorder of the natural anti-oxidative redox system, and an extrinsic process resulting of external factors, specifically solar radiation. A serious cellular damage is the result of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and other oxidative mechanisms. The review of several antioxidant cosmetic actives reveals the efficacy of these substances in the cellular senescence development, because of its action neutralizing harmful products generated. Therefore, combination of ascorbic acid and vitamin E stands out. Others, as retinoids, carotenoids, vitamin B3 or flavonoids have beneficial effects demonstrated. Conclusions: In order to treat and prevent effectively skin aging, we conclude it results essential the use of antioxidant actives. The relevance of including them in anti-aging cosmetic products has reach a new height, approaching their antioxidant property to reduce to a minimum stress oxidative effect and slow down cellular death disguised by skin aging.

Bibliographic References

  • Addor FAS. Antioxidants in dermatology. An Bras Dermatol. 2017; 92(3):356-362
  • Burke K. Mechanisms of aging and development: A new understanding of environmental damage to the skin and prevention with topical antioxidants, Mech Ageing Dev. 2017
  • Poljšak B, Dahmane RG, Godić A. Intrinsic skin aging: the role of oxidative stress. Acta Dermatovenerol Alp Pannonica Adriat. 2012; 21: 33–36
  • Langton A, Halai P, Griffiths C, Sherratt M, Watson R, The impact of intrinsic ageing on the protein composition of the dermal-epidermal junction, Mech Ageing Dev. 2016; 156: 14-16
  • Bissett DL. Common cosmeceuticals, Clin Dermatol. 2009 Sep-Feb; 27(5):435-445
  • Chauhan P, Shakya M. Modeling signaling pathways leading to wrinkle formation: identification of the skin aging target. Indian J Dermatol Venereol Leprol. 2009; 75(5):463–468
  • Kammeyer A, Luiten RM. Oxidation events and skin aging. Ageing Res Rev. 2015; 21:16–29.
  • Silva SAM, Michniak-Kohn B, Leonardi GR. An overview about oxidation in clinical practice of skin aging. An Bras Dermatol. 2017; 92(3): 367-374.
  • Martini M. Introducción a la dermofarmacia y a la cosmetología. Ed. Acribia, 2005
  • Cui L, Jia Y, Cheng ZW, Gao Y, Zhang GL, Li JY and He CF. Advancements in the maintenance of skin barrier/skin lipid composition and the involvement of metabolic enzymes. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2016; 15: 549–558.
  • Ramos-e-Silva M, Celem LR, Ramos-e-Silva S, Fucci-da-Costa AP. Anti-aging cosmetics: Facts and controversies. Clin Dermatol. 2013; 31: 750–758.
  • Chen L, Hu JY, Wang SQ. The role of antioxidants in photoprotection: a critical review. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2012; 67(5):1013–1024.
  • Surowiak, P, Gansukh, T, Donizy, P, Halon, A and Rybak Z. Increase in cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2) expression in keratinocytes and dermal fibroblasts in photoaged skin. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2014; 13: 195–201.
  • Widgerow AD and Grekin SK. Effecting skin renewal: a multifaceted approach. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2011; 10:126–130.
  • Telang S. Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian Dermatol. 2013; 4:143-146
  • Lee CM. Fifty years of research and development of cosmeceuticals: a contemporary review. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2016; 15(4):527-539
  • Sumita JM, Leonardi GR, Bagatin E. Tretinoin peel: a critical view. An Bras Dermatol. 2017; 92(3):363-366.
  • Li W-H, Wong H-K, Serrano J, Randhawa M, Kaur S, Southall M, Parsa R, Topical stabilized retinol treatment induces the expression of HAS genes and HA production in human skin in vitro and in vivo, Arch Dermatol Res. 2017; 309(4): 275-283
  • Wisniewski J, Ellis D, Lupo M. Facial Rejuvenation: Combining Cosmeceuticals With Cosmetic Procedures. Cutis. 2014; 94(3): 122-126
  • Petruk G, Raiola A, Giudice R, Barone A, Frusciante L, Rigano MM, Monti DM. An ascorbic acid-enriched tomato genotype to fight UVA-induced oxidative stress in normal human keratinocytes, Photochem Photobiol. 2016; 163: 284-289
  • Sliem M, Karas R, Harith MA. A promising protected ascorbic acid-hydroxyapatite nanocomposite as a skin anti-ager: A detailed photo-and thermal stability study, Photochem Photobiol. 2017; 173: 661-671
  • Masaki H. Role of antioxidants in the skin: Anti-aging effects, J Dermatol Sci. 2010 May; 58(2):85-90
  • Pullar J, Carr A, Vissers M. The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health, Nutrients. 2017; 9(8): 866
  • Delinasios G, Karbaschi M, Cooke M, Young A. Vitamin E inhibits the UVAI induction of «light» and «dark» cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers, and oxidatively generated DNA damage, in keratinocytes. Sci Rep. 2018; 8: 423
  • Widel M, Krzywon A, Gajda K, Skonieczna M, Rzeszowska-Wolny J. Induction of bystander effects by UVA, UVB, and UVC radiation in human fibroblasts and the implication of reactive oxygen species. Free Radic. Biol. Med. 2014; 68: 278–287
  • Fuller, B, Smith, D, Howerton A, and Kern D. Anti-inflammatory effects of CoQ10 and colorless carotenoids. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2006; 5: 30–38.
  • Imai S, Guarente L. NAD+ and sirtuins in aging and disease, Trends Cell Biol. 2014 Aug; 24(8): 464-471.
  • Naveed M, BiBi J, Kamboh A.A, Suheryani I, Kakar I, Fazlani S.A et al.. Pharmacological values and therapeutic properties of black tea (Camellia sinensis): A comprehensive overview, Biomed Pharmacother. 2018; 100: 521-531
  • Seo C-S, Jeong S-J, Yoo S-R, Lee N-R, Shin H-K. Quantitative Analysis and In vitro Anti-inflammatory Effects of Gallic Acid, Ellagic Acid, and Quercetin from Radix Sanguisorbae. Pharmacogn Mag. 2016; 12(46):104-108.
  • Scalia S, Marchetti N, Bianchi A. Comparative Evaluation of Different Co-Antioxidants on the Photochemical- and Functional-Stability of Epigallocatechin-3-gallate in Topical Creams Exposed to Simulated Sunlight, Molecules. 2013; 18: 574-587
  • Zhu Y, Pan W-H, Ku CF, Zhang H-J, Tsang SW. Design, synthesis and evaluation of novel dihydrostilbene derivatives as potential anti-melanogenic skin-protecting agents. Eur J Med Chem. 2018; 143: 1254-1260